Sun, May 6
Awake this morning to a much windier, greyer and colder Stromness. Michael’s cold is worse so he opts out of any planned trips. We start out with the idea that we should buy tickets to Maeshowe for later in the week, Tuesday perhaps, although we aren’t at all sure whether we really want to revisit this neolithic burial mound. Of course Jen needs to see it but we have pretty vivid memories of the place and the stories that accompany it.
https://www.orkneyjar.com/history/maeshowe/
Tickets are no longer sold on site–the old mill that housed a small museum and gift shop as well as ticket window has been closed– and we know there is no point going to the visitors’ centre near Stenness because tickets can only be purchased ahead of time online (and we don’t want to use credit cards if we don’t need to) or by chance just before a tour begins. This seems pretty crazy but there you are. Can’t argue with inflexible rules.
So off we go to Dounby where we hear there is a tag sale in the local school. We arrive there at 10:30 and are told it doesn’t open until noon. Well, we say, let’s go to Corrigall Farm: Ha! that doesn’t open until noon either.
Lynn and I had both bought beautiful painted silk scarves at a gallery not listed as part of the Crafts Trail back in 2014 so we decide to go see if we can find it again. We are quite sure it was just a mile or two up the road from Kirbister Farm. It’s not there anymore–or we have somehow gotten ourselves in the wrong place. There is nothing to do but return to #18 for a quick lunch and hope that the afternoon will prove more fruitful.
Back in Dounby at 2 o’clock we find that the tag sale is now over; there are just a few stragglers packing up their wares. Oh, says one, you should have come in at 10:30! Ahh…
It’s off to Corrigall again where our guide Sue takes us through all the buildings and we learn a lot more about peat and peat-burning.
In the barn
This cupboard is not so different from Skara Brae’s!
Is this the better mousetrap?
A double oil lamp with a reed wick
Jen sits by the peat fire
It is obvious that indeed yes, Puss the beguiling cat, is no more. The place seems a bit empty without him.
We mention the rhubarb that is growing near the house and ask where we might find some growing wild. Sue picks us an armful and off we head to Kirkwall.
It’s time for cappuccinos and scones with clotted cream and jam at Judith Glue’s.
https://www.judithglue.com/pages/orkney-shop
They have no clotted cream today! We settle for whipped cream; it’s not the same. Cold and wind-whipped we decide to go home where we while away the rest of the afternoon knitting.
Pretty soon the delicious smell of tonight’s (Lynn’s) lamb stew which has been slow cooking all day in the crock pot draws us to the table for dinner. It’s the high point of this rather dismal day. More knitting and then we’re all off to an early bedtime.
