Here at Keldaby we raise the beautiful, gentle and shyly friendly angora goats that provide Moonshine Design with the cloudsoft and highly lustrous mohair used in our fine selection of hand dyed, hand woven goods. Wrap yourself in a throw, toss a scarf or shawl around your shoulders or luxuriate in our fabulous ruanas. Step back to a more romantic era in a Western Isles hood. Discover the magic of mohair socks dyed in every color of the rainbow.
What fun this is! Would I ever have gotten here without Covid19 I wonder? The isolation has removed all the pressures of dyeing yarns, weaving, knitting in anticipation of upcoming shows. So far shows have been cancelled or postponed indefinitely (and really, I do have enough stock should there be a sudden reversal!) Here are some more of my watercolors.
These were done this winter when the living room was toasty warm and all I had to do was move from one chair to another for a different perspective.
I also drove out and photographed a few places just so I’d have some more potential drawings to do.
Around and about Colrain Massachusetts
Of course I did some right from my own yard
Of course, there are my cats, both of whom have died leaving me bereft and needing to find another wonderful brother-sister pair. The little calico was Muizza (named for Mohammed’s kitten who fell asleep in his arms so he had to cut the sleeve off his robe in order to go to pray without waking her.) The tiger was Mischa Mouseky (Named for the cellist Mischa Maisky.)
And I have a few from recent trips to Spain and Italy (even if I didn’t get to go to Sicily this spring!)
Also one more from Stromness. Gulls having retrieved lambchop remains fly off
Miracle of miracles, it’s another beautiful warm, calm day. In the morning I work on my netzpatent hat while some of the others go for a walk out along the Ness Road.
Later in the morning Jill and I meet up with Lynn and Jen and we do a really complete check of all the Stromness shops starting with the consignment shop owned by the Cat Protection Society of Stromness
This fella owns this corner and poses for us
where we buy a roller suitcase for all the purchases we’ve been making. At the Quernstone both Jen and I find sweaters we love and, egging each other on, she buys two, I one. And again we check out, more completely this time, its sister gift and housewares store across the street. We also visit one of our favorite stores from the last trip, Cream, which has an excellent selection of local crafts and art.
I’m almost embarrassed to mention it but yes, again we go back to No. 18 for BLTs, which continue to provide us with the perfect lunch. It’s the wonderful Orkney bacon, the vine-ripened tomatoes (perhaps from Spain) and lettuce on really good local toasted bread. We are not tempted to try anything else!
Michael, whose cold has grown worse, elects to stay home and perhaps work on a sketch or two. We all head out to Kirkwall to continue this day of shopping. We walk the entire length of the main shopping district–as in Stromness the street changes name every block going from Victoria to Broad to Albert and ending as Bridge Street down by the harbor.
There’s jewelry at Ortak, yarns and fleece as well as art materials at For Arts Sake where Lynn and I buy North Ronaldsay fleece (from the seaweed-eating sheep) to spin. Ola Gorie’s striking jewelry (yes, I buy earrings), pottery, clothes and a secondhand shop in a cluster at The Longship. Jill really scores with two beautiful pendants--one an Ola Gorie piece–at the secondhand shop next door to Judith Glue’s to which we repair to have cappuccino and cake. We ponder the runic rings and bracelets at Aurora and more jewelry at Sheila Fleet’s.
Along Albert Street
Judith Glue’s shop and cafe
Looking down Albert Street
Chimney pots everywhere
We spend time in St Magnus Cathedral. It’s a beautiful late Romanesque church, the oldest parts having been built in the late 12th century by medieval craftsmen trained during the building of Durham Cathedral in England. The story of Earl Magnus’s martyrdom at the hands of his violent and treacherous cousin Earl Haakon is recorded in all its bloody detail in The Orkneyinga Saga, a must-read if Norse tales and Icelandic sagas are among your favorites. It was Magnus’s nephew who had the church erected as a final resting place for his uncle’s remains. https://www.orkneyjar.com/history/stmagnus/magcath.htm
Façade of St Magnus and site of my blasphemous fall three years ago
Toward the rose window
Four of the banners currently hanging along both sides of the nave and depicting the St Magnus story
We pay a visit to the Orkney Museum in the Tankerness House. The museum seems larger, more inclusive of the islands’ history right up into the 20th century and better organized than in 2014
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And we learn that the gardens behind the house are a popular location for weddings and in fact we do see a wedding party nearby.
After buying food (good god, how much DO we eat!!) at Tesco we drive to Finston and the Peedie (small in the local vernacular) Chippie van by the Wide Firth and buy huge plates of fish and chips.
The Peedie Chippie for dinner–very popular!
Our Stromness harbor
in the gloaming
Michael gets to eat leftovers; he doesn’t do fish or seafood, period. Afterwards there’s more Spite and Malice.
The first thing to note is that my second and third posts were set up as pages, not posts, so their titles–Sea Hames and Kirbister Farm and Beltane at the Ring of Brodgar–don’t show up in the list of posts and I haven’t been able to figure out how to reinstate them correctly.
Ahh… We have an update here. Yesterday Joanie brought over Reine, a knowledgeable young friend who came originally from Benin and visited us with her husband Zeke, originally from Belize, and she solved my blogging problem SO EASILY!! So all my entries now are posts, not pages. Thank you, Reine!!
And she bought a hat!
Meanwhile Zeke helped (immensely!) Bob get the tractor going again.
Mon, May 1st
Jason arrives in the morning with replacement parts for the sewer connection. The problem is fixed quickly and we suspect that this has been an ongoing problem along the main street as road construction has obviously been going on for some time. The street is closed immediately beyond us on the final portion of the main street which turns from South End to Ness Road just past our cottage.
Jill, Jen, Lynn and I head out to visit all our favorite shops along the street, the Quernstone and its sister shop across the street where we look at sweaters, Sutherland Pharmacy and Lynn and I visit the Pier Art Centre which has a show of contemporary Orcadian artists and a small collection of 20th century work.
After lunch we head out to follow the Craft Trail. It’s quite cool and windy and I am glad I bought a good sweater at a consignment shop back in Kirkwall last Saturday. Tomorrow we will be more organized and really begin to visit the various archaeological sites. I make a stir fry for dinner and then Michael, Lynn and I play Spite and Malice all evening.
Not surprisingly it is rainy, cool and windy so this will be another day pursuing crafts and art, this time heading south to South Ronaldsay where we had landed from the ferry. Our first stop is the Hoxa Tapestry Gallery which everyone has told us to visit. Leila Thomson’s work is large and beautifully executed and she tells us that she works at her loom 12 hours a day or more. Her daughter Jo and son Andrew have joined her and their work speaks very much to the wide open windy spaces, the beaches and sky, the birds and the seas. (www.hoxatapestrygallery.co.uk)
Hoxa tapestry
This Hoxa tapestry is 6 by 8 feet
Andrew lets me use the WiFi connection (ever in the pursuit of email from home, news of crises…or actually mostly to get rid of unwanted spam). I buy several cards, Jill buys a framed print.
From this gallery we head back to St Margarets Hope to check out The Workshop and Loft Gallery, a crafts producers’ co-op specializing in knitted items and local crafts.
I fall for another sweater; fortunately it’s not my size. Enough already!! Show some restraint! I did however buy a set of Alison Moore’s stacked rings, Michael exchanges some yarn for a darker color. (www.workshopandloftgallery.co.uk)
Here’s a good place to insert a few of the Harray Potter pieces I have bought, both at his studio and in the Stromness shop:
Notice the runic inscriptions.
One of Andrew’s “willy” cups!
Using motifs from neolithic pottery shards
A Loving Bowl that I’ve bought to give Geoffrey and Monica at their September wedding
We eat our sandwiches back in the car–can they indeed be BLTs again? Probably, and then we head north across the causeway to Burray Island where we stop to get coffee at the Fossil Museum there. The gift shop is uninspiring, the museum display, as much as we can see, is uninviting and the coffee is undrinkable. We strike that off our list for any potential future visits! I fail again to get a good picture of the sunken ships in Scapa Flow and I tentatively mention that I’d like to visit some of the World War II sites but get no endorsement for the idea. I have watched many British war dramas (I think particularly of A Family at War) that I feel an attachment to this place. I will have to be content with the Italian Chapel.
Then of course we are back in Kirkwall again, but this time we are looking for Orkney chairs. Lynn has been talking about buying one of the hooded chairs for months. Our first stop is Scapa Crafts Orkney Chairs where Jackie and Marlene Miller show us how these traditional chairs are made. (www.scapacraftsorkneychairs.co.uk)
This one is sold and will be on its way to California soon.
Jackie shows off a nearly finished piece and Marlene talks with Lynn who is wearing her new Orkney sweater
The chairs are very comfortable and Lynn has practically handed over her credit card until we learn how much just the shipping will be. About $1000! We tell them that we are thinking of visiting Eday Island because it is such a good place to observe seabirds. Jackie, who is originally from Eday, says they will be going there on Friday, practically invites us to go with them but then remembers it is for a funeral. From there we go just a couple of blocks to the studio of a former Miller apprentice, Fraser Anderson, and look at his furniture. His is a bit more varied in style but the shipping cost looms ever larger. Eventually both Lynn and I settle on buying small model chairs. She really hates to give up the idea but we try to convince her that she can craft her own, perhaps with the help of Michael and Ruth (ruthbmcdowell.com) who have done a lot of basketry and twig furniture.
Jill has been hankering for fish and chips so this will be an evening without one of our home-cooked meals. We pull up next to the shop and Jill calls to some teenage boys hanging out, fish and chips in hand, “Is it good?” and we are told that yes, it’s good and one boy says to the other, ” Eh, you fancy ‘er?” We bring in three portions (Michael never, ever eats any sort of fish or seafood so he heats up the remainder of the pot roast and tries not to gag over the odor floating up from our decidedly heavy meals. If we do this again we’ll skip the chips.) And no, they’re not wrapped in newspaper, but in plain white butcher’s paper.
We watch a bit of the Chelsea Garden Show judging and an English version of American Pickers and do a bit of knitting. I am getting more and more frustrated trying to master netzpatent! Poor Michael. Every time I screw up I hand it to him to tink–that’s knit spelt backwards–back past the mistake and get me on the straight and narrow again. Hopeless!!
A bright, sunshiny day, windy and no rain in the forecast. We head out early, north toward Birsay, watching our map which has all the studios and shops selling local crafts noted. Then we see a sign for the Barony Mill and we decide to check this out first.
It’s a lovely collection of farm buildings and the man who greets us is clearly happy to tell us all about grains and the milling process. We learn about the various grains in Orkney, especially the primitive form of barley called bere.. There are paper bags filled with barley, wheat, oats, bere and he asks us to identify each (we do fairly well) and then he takes us on a tour of the mill itself.
By the way the lower left bag contains the bere. Bere isn’t grown much now but had been the staple of Orcadian baked goods up through the 19th c. Jill buys a booklet of bere recipes and a bag of ground bere to bring back. The mill is about 150 years old–the building of it, especially the amount of wood which needed to be brought in, cost the family three generations to pay off–and is water powered. I get to open the sluice gate that starts the belts and then the various grindstones turning. Our guide explains the different gear ratios for each step of the process.
After we leave Barony Mill we head up to the village of Birsay, a rather rag-taggle place, wind-swept and very remote feeling. The ruins of Earl Robert’s mid 16th century palace (half-brother to Mary Queen of Scots and not a pleasant fellow) is here, much of it surrounded with scaffolding and some desultory reconstruction going on. His son Earl Patrick found the palace insufficient, abandoned it and built the more elaborate, more Renaissance palace in Kirkwall.
The kirk From there we drive out to the headland of Birsay and although we can look across to the Brough of Birsay on an island just a few hundred feet away, we can’t get there because the tide is high and the causeway is under water. We walk along the beach but it’s very windy so we sit in our Focus, eat our BLTs and Michael and I share an Orkney Dark Island beer. We will be back another day after we’ve checked the tide times.
At the Yellowbird Gallery, where following my own tenet that if you take up someone’s time in a shop you should then buy something, I acquire several cards, reproductions of larger prints. They (husband and wife) also make small ceramic “rocking robins”, lovely little birdlike forms that do indeed rock back and forth. Then we’re on to Fluke Jewellery (www.flukejewellery.com) where Jill buys a couple of silver charms for her granddaughter Fayley’s charm bracelet. Michael, who has previously found a tiny cowrie shell, learns from the artist that such shells are tokens of good luck. But what we are most interested in finding is The Woolshed where we meet Denise Dupres and where we know we will find yarns, roving and finished goods made from the North Ronaldsay seaweed-eating sheep.
The fleece is not particularly soft and there is a fair amount of kemp but nonetheless it makes very handsome sweaters. Jill buys a vest, Lynn and I each buy a sweater and a skein of rainbow-dyed yarn. (I know I’m going to need my sweater as the weather continues cool and windy even with all the layers I’ve brought with me.) Michael buys a kit with yarn and a pattern for a scarf and hat. We cut across the West Mainland and drive into Dounby where we find a cafe in the small local hotel and although we have had our BLTs , we stop in for a pick me upper.
Afternoon snack in Dounby where we find good coffee
Dounby
The coffee is good and the teenage boy who serves us bobs a little curtsy as he sets down the cups. Then we go across the street to the Dounby Butcher where we buy lamb chops and pork sausages from the owner’s farm. The farm turns out to be one we saw when we were at Skara Brae and we learn from a passerby who happens in that the shop has just been named “Best in Scotland” …the owner proudly shows her plaque to prove it.
The Dounby Butcher
We think this may be the herd belonging to the Dounby Butcher
Nearby is the Harray Potter studio where we meet up with the potter himself, Andrew Appleby, and see a much greater range of his work. Among his several styles he has studied the neolithic art very closely and incorporates many of these motifs into his pots, mugs, buttons. (www.applepot.co.uk) We also admire his chickens…
Back in Kirkwall we park again near the main shopping street and spend a lot of time in the Sheila Fleet Gallery (Jill orders a ring) and other shops. And finally on a more practical level we shop at the Tesco supermarket, finding everything we will need for the coming week. As guardian of the kitty (we had each put in 200 pounds) I find that after this foray into Tesco we have about half our joint account left. I must mention that although all of us are certainly familiar with sheep and cows and by now have seen thousands of ewes with their babies and cows with their calves we continue to ooh and aah every time we see more (which is all the time!). They are dotted everywhere in the landscape, often grazing around abandoned farmsteads.
Back in Stromness Michael and I go to the library because there are signs saying “Free WiFi” and a “Open 2 to 7 PM” the window…but inexplicably it has closed early.
Barony Mill Supreme
4 fresh pork sausages, sliced and fried in the wok, then set aside
1 chopped onion
2 sliced parsnips
3 large cloves garlic….sauteed together
1/2 head of savoy cabbage
2 Bramley apples (Granny Smiths would do) sliced
Combine all with rosemary, salt and pepper and cook until the cabbage and apples are slightly carmelised.
Serve with mashed potatoes and healthy dollops of butter and yogurt.
We had a very nice Chilano tempranilloand, while playing our usual Spite & Malice, vanilla ice cream with chocolate sauce (50:50 ratio of dark chocolate and yogurt).
As unlikely as this seems, this being my birthday and all, I am sitting in the waiting room while a doctor injects another shot into Bob’s eyeball. It gives me a queasy feeling and I am squinting as I write this and I also know that I am relieved it is his eyeball and not mine. The drug, which is used conventionally to fight colorectal cancer, turns out to also stabilize macular degeneration. How, I ask myself, would someone figure that out? What possible similarities can there be between a malignant cancer way down the gut and a condition that ultimately robs a person of center sight? Who said, “Hey, let’s try this stuff in an eye!”
But this is not what I wanted to write about at all though there is a tenuous connection. Aging and not being the person you once were, that’s the connection. Last Friday we packed our van with all the paraphernalia for the Sheep & Wool Festival in Rhinebeck: tables, table cloths, the two dollar rug I once got from my cousin Nancy, a director’s chair, gridded panels and fixtures to hold scarves and yarns, photos and shawls, lights and their spare parts and tools, decorative wreathes of autumnal leaves, Vietnamese baskets and several plastic tubs of product, our clothes and all our paraphernalia and after tearful farewells to the dogs we left. (The cockatiels and the cats Mischa and Muizza, the goats and the peafowl are pretty stoic about farewells and didn’t immediately fall to the ground, abject and pleading. Elli had to be dragged from the van. Fenris was burdocked to Bob’s leg)
We had gotten all the way to Hawley on 8A having already parked to eat the many strange and mislabeled dishes from Keystone that Bob had bought for lunch when I remembered the essential paperwork–parking pass, insurance papers, sales tax certificate–all sitting right on my desk and although I suspected we could probably survive without this bureaucratic back-up, I knew it was best to go fetch it. So back we went. The dogs had dragged a 10-pound bag of sugar out into the kitchen and chewed a hole in it, thinking no doubt, they would find doggie kibbles or kitty bits, but fortunately as I had forbidden Bob to come in again, Elli and Fen walked away from me and went out the back; I am just chump change to them. So we are on our way again feeling only a bit aggrieved.
I’ll skip the drive, the set-up, even the night at the motel not far from the Kingston/Rhinebeck Bridge where we had stayed last year and where we planned to stay just Friday night as we had made plans to spend Saturday with our Staten Island friends Barbara and Michael. We didn’t need dinner on Friday as our Keystone lunches were still sitting cannonball-like in our stomachs. But I will add that the night attendant in the motel was a close relative–we’re talking personality here–of the owner of the Best Exotic Marigold Hotel. I reminded him of a teacher he had had. “Whew, that’s probably not so good,” I said. “Oh no, I liked her a lot! But why are you only staying one night?” he wanted to know. I explained.
Saturday was not a beautiful fall day but the crowds were as always thick, the food lines endless, the buildings crowded with folks wearing all the sweaters and ponchos and vests they had made. There was a sprinkling of women with pink or lime green or turquoise mohawks, but our business seemed slow and leaving the fairgrounds at 5:30 was the usual traffic jam that stretched for miles. When we had finally gotten across the bridge I said to Bob, “Hey, give Mike a call and tell him we’re heading down 199 so we’ll be there soon and just check with him for the landmarks we need.” The sun was already setting, the sky dark with clouds and I had just realized that I had left my Kindle back in the booth. Bob dialed the number, then said,” Uhhh, she says the number is not in service.” He tried twice more, I tried. The number was not in service. Great! Clearly they have forsaken their landline for cell phones. I look in my address book, we have only a box number, no street name. I look on my phone–maybe they are in my contact list. No, they’re not. By now night has fallen and 199 has segued into the narrow, winding, mainly shoulderless 209 which will take us through Stone Ridge and New Paltz and on to Wawarsing. Headlights are blinding me, deer are waiting to leap in front of me, some jerk is tailgating with his high beams on and we are trying to remember something, anything about where we are headed. “I think their farm is called Deer Run Something” I venture, “And wasn’t there something about a water tower?” And after a fairly abstemious day I am already smelling the home-smoked meats that Mike has prepared for us and tasting the bottle of red wine he has promised to open.
As slowly as we can in a long line of commuters rushing to get home, we try to read the names on the little roads that turn off 209 and we do see a tower of sorts, though it’s on the wrong side of the road and we do venture down a couple of these little roads but they end up in trailer parks and I’m not about to knock on a stranger’s door to ask if they know Barbara or Mike or have ever heard of Deer Run Farm. Nor is Bob. I pull off into the state police barracks to ask but there is a sign on the door saying “We are all away patrolling the roads. Please use the phone” and an arrow pointing. I don’t and we drive out again, followed instantly by a state trooper from the barracks. Ah, I think. I’ll pull over and he’ll stop to ask why we were at the barracks. I stop, he doesn’t.
Because I don’t have my Kindle with me (Damn!!) I can’t check email so next I call home where Bob’s daughter Sally is minding the farm and ask her to turn on the computer and find old email with just maybe a phone number. She finds one…it is Barbara’s work number. Not hopeful, though I know she is actually at work right then at SUNY New Paltz, I leave a pathetic message but I know she won’t check her phone. And so, defeated, angry about forgetting the Kindle, annoyed that people would relinquish their good landlines for crummy cell reception, hungry, worn out and feeling about 105 we head back to the motel. Our Best Exotic Marigold desk clerk is amused to see me again, crestfallen and weary, and we get another room. In Kingston we find a diner where we eat a meal not unlike the Keystone lunch. We vow we will never do the Rhinebeck show again. We are too old, period.
The next day Barbara comes and spends several hours with us and we have a great time and make plans for them to visit later this year. We warn her of our closed bridge. Sales are still pretty underwhelming but yesterday I signed us up for another year. And this morning I found, in a little tray on my desk, a business card with a map drawn on the back and Barbara’s cell phone number carefully saved from last year. You just can’t let age get you down!